sweat blood and tears

Welcome to my Mock-up Process!

This is when I'm trying to figure out if I should do a all-in-one helmet or a AR sunglasses, so I just put both on a mannequin head and played around.
I'm using modeling clay, better known as adult / professional Play-Doh, to figure out how much space I have to mount electronics for sunglasses
Here I'm trying to figure out sunglasses' lenses shape. (goal is to make it look cool)
After knowing my tolerance I started to construct electronic housing for an AR sunglasses.
This is what makes it "professional" Play-Doh, the smooooothness.
After some back-and-forth, I decided to make a helmet because the larger size offers me more design freedom, and is more iconic to a cyclist

Then I took my ideas to the Model Shop

I glued four pieces of two inch blue foam together and made this buck. I used blue foam because it is the cheapest material for the size requirement. This is my first attempt and notice the roughness on the surface.
I overlaid multiple strips of cut fiberglass on top half of the buck. I laid them in crisscross pattern for sturdiness. Always wear gloves and masks when dealing with fiberglass, lesson learned the hard way.
This is how it looks after I let it sit overnight. Notice the pale sections. Those are air bubbles formed between the fiberglass and the buck. Those are formed because of the heat generated during the epoxy curing process melted sections of the blue foam.
Because I didn't put enough wax on the blue foam surface and how rough it is when laminated with fiberglass, it is extremely hard to remove the buck without damaging the fiberglass case.
It took me hours to separate both parts. Notice the ridges on the blue foam buck. It is foam epoxy that I used to glue the four pieces of foam together. They used to be flushed with the surface after turning on the lathe. They look extruding because they are the only part that didn't melt during the epoxy curing process.
Because of the roughness on the buck and air bubbles formed during the curing process, I used a lot of bondo trying to smooth out the surface.
Third pass with bondo after sanding the previous layer. The hardness difference between epoxy and bondo is also causing uneven surfaces.
Final pass with bondo to fix minor gaps and fill holes.
I taped a piece of paper to protect the color break section and spraed other sections black to better show flaws in the surface.
After doing this I decided that this is a great first attempt, but it is not worth saving. My design slightly changed at this point and I found out that I made this a little too large, on top of uneven surfaces. I decided to go for a second attempt.
Round Two ...

FIGHT !

I redid previous steps and you can see that I have a section of previous buck to make sure my proportion and size is correct this time.
After I bring it down to shape and size, I sanded it up to 1000 grid with sand paper to create a much better surface for laminating.
This is when I finished laminating this buck with multiple layers of fiberglass, and you can see the huge difference between this one and the previous attempt.
After just two pass with thin bondo and sanding, it is already perfectly to spec with the smooth surface that I need.
For this time I used this PolyPrimer before applying color because I'm confident about the result and planning on using this to make my final helmet mock-up.
I'm letting it sit on the shelf of a ventilation room with wax paper underneath for easy cleaning when done curing.
However, this is the end of story for my helmet mock-up, because the next day, the school locked down due to Covid-19. I'm sure it is sitting around somewhere else right now, just unbeknownst to me.
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